Tuesday, May 1, 2018
Ive been getting ready to mount my 2 stroke engine. Im planning on putting it onto my Kent street bike. Ive been waiting for the chain tensioner wheel to come in the mail. The tracking hasn't been real accurate, so I'm just hoping it comes before Saturday. My project for tomorrow is taking the gear off of my old hub. I might use this hub, once I remove the spokes, to rebuild the orange bikes rear wheel. I will keep updating as I go on.
These two spokes got ripped out of the rim from the last chain tensioner wheel that went through it...
I will post when the tensioner wheel comes in the mail. Have a great day!
Keep on Biking!
Sunday, April 22, 2018
A few days ago I was biking home on my orange single speed(1940s solid steel frame), from doing errends uptown. I got to the top of a hill just before my apartment. I was pedaling so good so I could coast all the way down, when all of a sudden my back wheel locked up... I got off and looked at it, just saw that the back wheel had shifted in the drop out, didnt think much of it.
After hauling the bike home 4 block on my shoulders, and sitting for 3 days, I looked closer at the hub and saw that it had completely shifted, wrecking a bearing the bearing cup. I also realized that the hub has a large crack! I didnt see it when it first happened because, i was only now able to rotate the wheel. I could probubly still use the hub, but it wont last long... I might rebuild it later on down the road, but for now, ill just be taking it apart to see the rest of the damage. In my next post ill detail what happened inside the hub, and the conclusion on what made this happen. Thanks for reading, dont forget to follow me!
Wednesday, April 11, 2018
Thursday, November 20, 2014
I have been working on getting the motor running, but I ran into a little problem. One of the Piston rings broken, and because of that the motor doesn't have enough pressure inside the engine to constantly idle or run. I am currently waiting for the part to come in, but the part is being ordered from China and it should be at my door step around Thanksgiving. I'm hoping that it comes sooner so I can get it running sooner. The bicycle that I am installing the motor onto is a Genisis Onyx 29er Black Cruiser bike that I bought from Walmart for a little over $165.00. The motor is meant for 26" wheels, but I think that it should work for the 29" rims. It just means that I will be going a few miles an hour slower then on a 26" rimed bike.
This is what my "mo-ped" I call it, will end up looking like, I will post pictures of it when I get it all put together and running. Until then I will be waiting for the part, but I will be trying to add some informational posts for Winter biking, and some of the things you'll need to do so if you choose to or are brave enough. I have had people come up to me and tell me that I'm crazy and others that give kudos to me for doing it. This will be my fifth winter that I will be enduring on a bicycle.
Keep on Biking....
Friday, November 7, 2014
Lately I have been working on a project. I have been working assembling a motor onto a bicycle. You can buy motor kits online for anywhere between $80.00 to $150.00, depending on where you buy it from and if it's new or used. I bought mine off of Ebay for $86.80. It's an 80cc motor kit, they come with all the parts needed to turn your bicycle into a DIY motorcycle. I have my motor on a old Denault three speed bicycle and it wasn't a good turn out. It worked for about three days, and the spokes In the rear wheel started popping left and right, and also the frame width between chain stays wasn't wide enough. The chain started ratting away at the frame and made the entire bike unsafe to ride... I set the bike aside for now, but I am going to be buying a new bicycle tomorrow thatI know can handle the stress of having a motor attached to it. I will also be having pictures and descriptions to go along with everything.
Keep on biking...
Thursday, September 11, 2014
Few of us really appreciate how hardworking and integral the rear derailleur is until it stops functioning perfectly. Then you’re stuck with, at best, an imprecise and clattery ride. So the next time you climb with little—well, a little less—effort, give a nod to this marvel of engineering. Here’s how it works—plus tips to keep it running like new.
1. The upper area on the derailleur is the b-knuckle.
2. On Shimano and SRAM derailleurs, the b-tension adjuster fine-tunes the height of the guide pulley. On Campagnolo derailleurs, the adjustment is done via a screw near the p-knuckle.
3. To adjust cable tension, use the barrel adjuster.
4. The guide pulley keeps the chain in line as it moves from cog to cog during shifts.
5. The idler pulley helps hold tension on the chain regardless of gear choice.
6. The mounting bolt connects the derailleur to the frame.
7. The parallelogram linkage lets the chain move left and right and up and down the cassette while remaining parallel to the cogs.
8. High and low limit stops are usually found near the b-knuckle but sometimes on the front of the parallelogram. The low limit (often marked L) prevents shifts into the spokes; the high limit (marked H) prevents the chain from dropping off the smallest cog.
9. The p-knuckle holds both the guide pulley and a spring that keeps tension on the cage to hold the chain taut. Shimano’s XTR Shadow Plus (for mountain bikes) has a switch that increases spring tension and activates a friction stabilizer to keep the chain from bouncing in rough terrain.
10. The cable bolt pinches the shift cable in place. On most derailleurs, when the shift lever pulls on the cable, the derailleur moves up the cassette to a lower gear. The exception: Shimano’s low-normal derailleurs, on which it does the opposite.
11. The cage keeps the chain in line between the pulleys.
Clean and Adjust
For the best performance, position the guide pulley (4) roughly 6 to 7mm away from the cogs. If your chain skips when you shift to a lower gear, give the barrel adjuster (3) a half-turn counterclockwise (Tip: Think L for lower and for left turn). A higher gear? Try a halfturn clockwise. After cleaning, add a few drops of lube to the pivot points (there are eight) of the parallelogram linkage (7), cycle through a few shifts, then wipe off any excess lube. When you clean your chain, clear the muck from the inner and outer surfaces of both pulleys (4 & 5)—it collects at the base of their teeth.
Article From "Bicycling.com"
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